When Imelda Marcos revived the Terno in the 70’s, we knew a fashion comeback was in the making.
Like most garments, the Terno has gone through elaborate changes. It originates from the Traje de Mestiza— a four piece ensemble with huge bell sleeves, a wide skirt and a decorative scarf called the Pañuelo. This wasn’t very practical, because women were constricted in tight bodices that limited movement. So when the sleeves were shortened, the Pañuelo was taken out and the skirt lost some yardage— the Terno was born.
The transformation however, doesn’t end there; designers and fashionistas today are bringing the Terno back to the limelight. Now, the Terno isn’t just an itchy costume you wear on Filipiñana day— it’s a comfortable and fashion-forward alternative to run-of-the-mill dresses.
Reinventing a Classic
Aries Lagat rose to the challenge of turning the Terno’s heavy sleeves to a comfortable statement piece. Lagat, who is famous for his multi-functional designs, developed a cushioning system to prevent bruising at the shoulders. Likewise, designer Veejay Floresca experimented with the gown’s construction. Instead of the traditional closed, pleated sleeve, his version consists of two flat patterns sewn together with an open armhole for greater movement.
Local designers have tapped into different mediums to embellish the Terno. Who could forget the late Bryan Leyva’s Terno pantsuit made out of 5-centavo coins? His odd choice of material is a tasteful and ultramodern interpretation of the traditional classic. Lagat explains how designers must look for new ways to adorn the Terno. “If you really want to make a name in the industry, you have to make something uncommon,” he says. He’s a man of his word— his innovations such as digital printing and embossed butterfly sleeves take the Terno beyond the 21st century.
We kids think that the Terno is only for political functions. Students admit that they would never wear it unless they’re required to. But designers are challenging this idea, creating more contemporary variations of the gown. Floresca recently bagged the highest honor at the Japan Fashion Design Competition for his entry Pinoy Robot, a mini-dress that borrows the Barong Tagalog’s delicate embroidery, the silhouette of Japanese robots and the elevated sleeves of the Terno. London-based Pinoy designer Lesley Mobo also incorporates Terno sleeves in his collections. His use of the butterfly sleeves add strength and personality to his pieces and are a more timeless yet trend-setting option than shoulder pads.
As a national costume, we shouldn’t forget that the Terno is part of history. Despite some design changes, the Terno should still be made and worn as The Terno. Not like a swimsuit, not as lingerie and definitely not as a joke. If we can bring back 70’s clogs and poufy skirts from the 50’s without looking silly, then we can make the Terno up-to-date without compromising its value.
Confidence is the Key
Wearing the Terno can be intimidating— its high shoulders suggest snobbishness and exclusivity. But anyone can wear the Terno with the right attitude. Lagat emphasizes how the gown’s personality is fit for strong and confident women. Moreover, as a national costume, it shouldn’t just be reserved for the country’s elite. Floresca says that everyone, even foreigners, can wear the Terno. He says, “We should always promote our national costume, because it’s really beautiful, it’s world class.”
Cary Santiago for Pinoy Lab at Bench Uncut Fashion Show
Photo Credit: www.spot.ph
URL: http://www.spot.ph/gallery/429/bench-uncut-2010#pid=4396
1 Centavo Pantsuit by the late Brian Leyva
Photo Credit: Jane Kingsu (mystylekit.blogspot.com) & the Metrowear team
Pinoy Robot by Veejay Floresca
Photo Credit: Veejay Floresca (veejayveejay.multiply.com)
Gown by Patis Tesoro
Photography: Wesley Villarica
Art Direction & Styling: Omar Ermita & Raffy Tesoro
Designer: Patis Tesoro
Model: Mercedes Alzar
Photo Credit: Raffy Tesoro
Dress by Lesley Mobo
Photo Credit: Christine Dychiao (manilafashionobserver.blogspot.com) & style.com
Dress by Ezra Santos
Photo by: Eros Goze
http://www.abs-cbnnews.com/lifestyle/05/13/10/reinvented-terno-stars-dubai-runway
Blazer & skirt ensemble by Ezra Santos
Photo by Eros Goze
http://www.abs-cbnnews.com/lifestyle/05/13/10/reinvented-terno-stars-dubai-runway
Restructured Jacket by Ezra Santos
Photo by Eros Goze
http://www.abs-cbnnews.com/lifestyle/05/13/10/reinvented-terno-stars-dubai-runway