Romancing a Walled City
by Jam A. Muñasque on August 23, 2010
Photo by Abram P. Barrameda
There is something undeniably charming in the way a Mini Stop resides comfortably in an old-fashioned, white washed building, the glowing sign from the store sticking out prominently. Intramuros is a contrast of a city that stubbornly repels and avoids modernity thriving outside its very walls.
“I’ve been to Intramuros lots of times,” says senior Leiron Martija. “The place never fails to surprise me.”
But his favorite part, he says, would have to be the walls. “Back in the day, Intramuros was literally a different world from what was outside its boundaries,” Leiron explains. “In a way, nothing will be more historical than its walls.”
But as with all coexisting elements, influence can hardly be avoided.
Take, for instance, the guard decked in colonial fashion who strides along the length of a cobbled road, headed towards a decorated stall to have his afternoon fix of Coke. Just above him, a construction worker in jeans makes his way atop a worn, moss-filled wall. He is heading to a half-built building as his comrades hail him with chicharon.
These are just a few contrasts that make up the hybrid that is Intramuros as you enter the city. The smell of freshly fallen rain indicates the cold August afternoon when this author decided to try her navigational skills at a self-imposed tour of the famed city.
“Take the Carlos Celdran tour!” junior Mariana Bantug shares. “It gives a fresh and exciting look at Philippine history.” Celdran’s tours are wildly popular. When I talk to regular Intramuros visitors, his name is almost always the first one mentioned. His tours begin in San Agustin Church, which is a good place to start even if you decide to wander around on your own.
Right beside San Agustin is a structure so curious that you can’t help but peek through the stoned hallway that leads to what seems like another world entirely. One step, then another – the guard stationed there does nothing to stop you and voila! You have entered Casa Manila. The beauty of the place lies in the details – a phonograph here, petite stone-steps that have you looking down to make sure you don’t trip. Visiting Casa Manila sets the atmosphere for an entire visit.
People find all sorts of surprises hidden in Intramuros. If you ask old-timers what would be good places to visit (aside from the more popular ones, that is), they would all give different answers. Maybe Intramuros retained what Carlos Celdran refers to as the perfect description of a Filipino: a halo-halo, a mixture of everything.
Looking for some cultural injection? A stroll in Fort Santiago will immediately regale you with the remnants of our past. Romantic dinners can be held in
If you’re looking for a place to chill, drop by the park beside the Light and Sound Museum. It overlooks the Intramuros Golf Course and what lies beyond, highlighting the stark contrast between the Old World and contemporary Manila.
No visit is complete, however, if you don’t visit a few of the well-known landmarks. I stood in front of Manila Cathedral absolutely enthralled as I imagined horses galloping towards the enormous doors as Governor General Sebastián Hurtado de Corcuera made his grand entrance four centuries ago (I have history class to thank for this).
“All that glory and spectacle and power…” muses Leiron. “It’s all over now, sure. But it’s in the smell, you know? You can literally inhale the history of the Cathedral.”
If it’s history we’re talking about, then Intramuros has definitely got us covered. After all, it’s been in our schoolbooks for as long as we can remember. But Intramuros is also a romantic rendition of our history. A restored city, yes, but one that has been done so painstakingly well that even the cracks and crevices in the walls make you feel giddy with all the stories that had transpired through them.
